Polycarbonate (PC) is one of the strongest, toughest materials available for desktop 3D printing. Known for its high impact resistance, heat tolerance, and mechanical strength, it’s ideal for engineering parts, functional prototypes, enclosures, and high-performance components.
However, printing with Polycarbonate is not beginner-friendly. It demands high temperatures, precise environmental control, and specific techniques.
In this complete guide, you’ll learn how to print with Polycarbonate successfully, including printer requirements, slicer settings, and troubleshooting tips.
Why Choose Polycarbonate for 3D Printing?
| Feature | Benefit |
|---|---|
| High impact strength | Stronger than ABS or PETG |
| Heat resistance | Survives up to 110–140°C |
| Toughness and flexibility | Durable and bend-resistant |
| Electrical insulation | Useful for electronics enclosures |
| Optical clarity (some blends) | Ideal for transparent parts |
Polycarbonate is commonly used for:
- Mechanical parts
- Functional prototypes
- Automotive components
- Aerospace brackets
- High-strength industrial applications
Challenges When Printing with Polycarbonate
- High extrusion temperatures (250–310°C)
- High bed temperatures (90–120°C)
- Severe warping if ambient temperature is too low
- Moisture absorption (hygroscopic material)
- Requires an enclosure for best results
Without proper preparation, PC prints often warp, crack, or delaminate between layers.
Printer Requirements for Polycarbonate
To print Polycarbonate successfully, your 3D printer should have:
| Requirement | Details |
|---|---|
| Hotend Temperature | 260–310°C capability |
| Heated Bed | 90–120°C minimum |
| Enclosure | Strongly recommended to stabilize ambient temp |
| Build Surface | PEI sheet, garolite, or glue on glass |
| All-metal Hotend | Needed to handle high extrusion temps |
Low-cost, open-frame printers usually cannot handle Polycarbonate without extensive upgrades.
Essential Slicer Settings for Polycarbonate
| Setting | Recommended Value |
|---|---|
| Nozzle Temperature | 260–290°C |
| Bed Temperature | 100–110°C |
| Chamber Temperature | 45–60°C (if controlled) |
| Layer Height | 0.2 mm standard (0.3 mm for strength) |
| Print Speed | 30–50 mm/s |
| Retraction Distance | 0.5–1.5 mm (depends on extruder type) |
| Cooling Fan | OFF or maximum 20% after first layers |
| Wall Count | 3+ walls for strength |
| Infill | 40–60% (grid, gyroid, or cubic recommended) |
Preparing the Filament: Drying Polycarbonate
Polycarbonate absorbs moisture from the air very quickly.
Wet filament causes:
- Bubbling or hissing during printing
- Poor layer adhesion
- Brittle parts
Dry your filament before use:
- Temperature: 70–80°C
- Duration: 4–6 hours in a filament dryer or oven (with precise temperature control)
Store Polycarbonate in a sealed container with desiccants between uses.
Best Bed Adhesion Techniques for Polycarbonate
Polycarbonate is prone to warping and lifting from the bed.
To combat this:
| Method | How to Use |
|---|---|
| PEI Sheet | Best surface for adhesion |
| Garolite (G10) Plate | Works excellently with PC |
| Glue Stick on Glass | Light, even coat to prevent sticking too hard |
| Magigoo PC Adhesive | Specialized glue for Polycarbonate |
| Textured Build Plates | Improves mechanical grip |
Also:
- Use a brim (5–10 mm) or raft for additional support.
- Disable or minimize part cooling for better bed adhesion.
Printing Polycarbonate: Step-by-Step Process
1. Preheat and Dry
- Dry filament for 4–6 hours.
- Preheat the hotend and bed well before starting.
2. Level Bed Carefully
Use a slightly higher nozzle gap than with PLA to accommodate thermal expansion.
3. Print Slow and Hot
- Begin with slow speeds (30–40 mm/s).
- Keep the hotend between 270–290°C depending on brand.
- First layer adhesion is critical—watch closely.
4. Control the Environment
- Print inside an enclosure.
- Avoid drafts, open windows, or fans that cool the part too quickly.
5. Cool Down Gradually
After printing, allow the printer and part to cool slowly inside the enclosure.
Rapid cooling can cause cracks even after the print is finished.
Recommended Polycarbonate Filaments
| Brand | Notable Features |
|---|---|
| Polymaker PolyLite PC | Easier to print than pure PC |
| MatterHackers Pro PC | Industrial-grade strength |
| Prusament PC Blend | Good for beginners; blends PC with ABS |
| Raise3D Industrial PC | High impact and thermal resistance |
| Esun ePC | Budget-friendly but reliable PC filament |
Note: Some brands sell PC blends (e.g., PC+ABS) which are easier to print but slightly compromise pure PC properties.
Common Problems and How to Solve Them
| Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
| Warping | Use brim, enclosure, correct bed adhesive |
| Layer cracking | Increase nozzle and bed temperature, use an enclosure |
| Bubbling | Dry filament thoroughly |
| Poor first-layer adhesion | Use PEI or glue stick; re-level bed |
| Stringing | Tune retraction; dry filament better |
FAQs
Q1: Can I print Polycarbonate without an enclosure?
It is technically possible for small parts, but an enclosure dramatically improves success rates and part quality.
Q2: Do I need an all-metal hotend for PC?
Yes. PC printing temperatures can destroy PTFE-lined hotends.
Q3: Is Polycarbonate stronger than Nylon?
Polycarbonate offers better heat resistance and stiffness, but Nylon generally has better flexibility and impact resistance depending on the grade.
Q4: Can I paint or post-process Polycarbonate prints?
Yes. PC can be sanded, vapor-smoothed (in specialized conditions), painted with polycarbonate-compatible paints, and glued using solvent adhesives.
Conclusion
Polycarbonate is an elite engineering material that rewards patient and careful 3D printing.
With its outstanding strength, heat resistance, and durability, it’s perfect for serious functional parts—but only if you have the right printer setup, slicer settings, and filament handling practices.
Master the drying, adhesion, and thermal requirements, and you’ll unlock the full potential of this industrial-grade filament—building prints that outperform typical PLA, PETG, and even ABS models.