Warping is one of the most frustrating problems in 3D printing. A model may start perfectly, only for one or more corners to curl up and detach from the build plate. This not only ruins the print but can also lead to filament waste, printer damage, or even nozzle clogs if the lifted edge catches during movement.
Understanding why warping happens and how to prevent it is key to successful 3D printing. This comprehensive guide explains what causes warping, how to recognize the signs early, and most importantly, how to stop your prints from peeling, curling, or lifting from the bed.
What Causes Warping in 3D Printing?
Warping occurs when layers of printed filament cool and contract at different rates, especially near the base of the model. As the material shrinks, tension builds up and pulls corners upward. If the adhesion to the build plate isn’t strong enough, the print will lift, peel, or even completely detach.
Several factors can contribute to warping:
- Uneven or insufficient bed temperature
- Inconsistent first-layer adhesion
- Drafts or ambient temperature changes
- High internal stress in materials like ABS or nylon
- Incorrect print speed or cooling fan settings
- Using the wrong build surface for the filament type
To eliminate warping, it’s important to address both environmental and hardware causes.
Identifying the Early Signs of Warping
Catching warping early can save you hours of print time and material. Watch for the following signs during the first few layers of your print:
- Corners or edges start to lift slightly off the bed
- The first layer appears uneven or not squished properly
- Gaps appear under the print base
- Cracking noises during the print (as material cools and contracts)
- Sudden shifts in print layers caused by lifted corners catching the nozzle
If you see any of these symptoms, pause the print and inspect the model. Restarting after adjustments will save time and reduce filament waste.
Use a Heated Bed and Set Correct Temperatures
A heated bed is essential for preventing warping. By warming the build surface, you slow down the cooling of the first few layers and reduce material shrinkage. This creates a more gradual temperature gradient between the hot end and the build plate.
Recommended Bed Temperatures by Filament:
- PLA: 50°C – 60°C
- PETG: 70°C – 85°C
- ABS: 90°C – 110°C
- Nylon: 70°C – 90°C
- TPU: 40°C – 60°C
Make sure your bed reaches and maintains the target temperature before printing. If warping persists, try increasing the bed temp by 5°C at a time while monitoring results.
Improve First Layer Adhesion
Poor bed adhesion is the most common cause of warping. Even slight detachment at one corner allows warping forces to lift the model. Ensuring the first layer sticks well is crucial.
Best Practices for First Layer Adhesion:
- Proper bed leveling: Ensure your nozzle is evenly spaced across the bed
- Correct first layer height: Too far and the filament won’t grip, too close and it may clog or smear
- Use slow speeds for the first layer: Print the first layer at 20–30 mm/s
- Ensure good extrusion flow: A consistent first layer line without gaps or skipping is ideal
- Adjust initial layer thickness: Use a thicker first layer (around 0.2–0.3 mm) for better grip
Adhesion begins with mechanical grip. A perfectly leveled and calibrated first layer forms the foundation of a warp-free print.
Use Adhesion Aids and Surface Treatments
Sometimes, even with the correct settings, certain filaments need additional help to stay attached. Adhesion aids can increase surface friction or chemically bond the first layer to the bed.
Common Adhesion Helpers:
- Glue stick: Adds tack to glass and PEI sheets
- Blue painter’s tape: Works well with PLA and TPU
- PEI sheets or BuildTak: Provide high-friction textured surfaces
- ABS slurry: Prevents ABS warping when applied to glass
- Magigoo or other commercial adhesives: Designed for specific materials
- Hairspray: A classic trick for PLA, though use with care
Always apply these aids evenly and sparingly. Excess can interfere with print quality or cause the part to stick too strongly, making removal difficult.
Add Brims, Rafts, or Skirts
Using extra perimeter structures like brims and rafts is one of the most effective methods to combat warping. These additional features increase surface area and improve grip during the initial layers.
- Brim: Adds a wide ring around your model’s base. Ideal for prints with small footprints or sharp corners.
- Raft: A thick, flat base printed beneath the entire model. It detaches after printing but creates strong adhesion.
- Skirt: A perimeter printed around the model but not touching it. Good for priming the nozzle but doesn’t help adhesion directly.
Start with a 5–10 line brim when printing tricky materials like ABS or when printing large, flat-bottomed models.
Enclose Your Printer to Control Environment
Sudden changes in ambient temperature can cause material to shrink rapidly, leading to warping. An enclosure traps heat, protects from drafts, and maintains a consistent environment around the print.
Benefits of Using an Enclosure:
- Retains heat for better layer bonding
- Prevents cooling from fans, windows, or AC vents
- Reduces the risk of cracks and curling
- Improves consistency when printing large objects
You can use a commercial enclosure or build one using acrylic panels, foam boards, or even an IKEA furniture hack. Always monitor internal temperatures to prevent overheating electronics.
Control Cooling Fan Settings
Overcooling the first few layers can solidify them too quickly, increasing shrinkage and internal tension. Adjust your fan settings to minimize the risk of warping.
Fan Settings Recommendations:
- PLA: 100% cooling fan after the first few layers, but keep it off or low for the first layer
- PETG: 30–50% fan speed; too much cooling causes weak adhesion
- ABS: Keep cooling fan off entirely unless needed for bridging or overhangs
- Nylon: Minimal or no fan for the entire print
Turn off part cooling fans during the initial layers to allow slow, even cooling. Gradually increase speed once the print is securely attached.
Slow Down Initial Layers
Printing too fast can reduce bed adhesion and cause filament to skip or under-extrude. For best results, slow the initial layers to 20–30 mm/s.
Slower speeds allow the filament to settle and bond with the build surface. They also give your printer more time to lay down accurate, continuous extrusion paths without smearing or lifting. Once the base is secure, you can safely increase speeds for the remainder of the print.
Check for Build Plate Flatness and Cleanliness
Even a small warp or contamination on your bed surface can cause localized lifting. A flat and clean surface ensures the first layer bonds evenly across the model.
- Use a straight edge or ruler to check for bed flatness
- Clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol before every print
- Avoid touching the bed surface with bare hands
- Check for debris, filament dust, or adhesive residue that could interfere with adhesion
If your surface is scratched, warped, or damaged, consider replacing it or applying a new sheet for consistent results.
Use Filaments With Lower Warping Tendency
Some filaments are naturally more prone to warping due to their molecular structure and cooling behavior. If warping persists, consider switching to materials with lower shrinkage.
Low-Warp Filaments:
- PLA
- TPU (Flexible filament)
- PETG (Moderate)
- PLA+ or modified PLA blends
High-Warp Filaments:
- ABS
- Nylon
- Polycarbonate
- ASA
While advanced materials offer strength and heat resistance, they require tighter control of temperature and environment to prevent warping.
Conclusion
Warping is a common challenge, but it’s far from unbeatable. With the right techniques, materials, and environmental controls, you can virtually eliminate lifting and curling issues. Success begins with a solid first layer—achieved through proper bed leveling, calibrated temperatures, slow initial printing, and strategic use of adhesion aids like glue sticks or brims.
Each filament type requires slightly different treatment, and the key is to understand its behavior and adapt your settings accordingly. By mastering the principles covered in this guide, you’ll drastically improve your print success rate and ensure your models stay firmly on the build plate from start to finish.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Why do my 3D prints keep warping off the bed?
Common causes include poor bed adhesion, incorrect bed temperature, fast cooling, drafts, and material shrinkage. Address each factor systematically to prevent warping.
2. Does a heated bed stop warping?
Yes, a properly heated bed reduces material shrinkage by maintaining thermal consistency during the first few layers, helping to prevent edge curling and lifting.
3. What’s the best adhesion method for ABS?
ABS slurry, glue stick on PEI, and printing in an enclosure with a high bed temperature (100–110°C) are the most effective methods.
4. Can I use a brim with any filament?
Yes, brims can be used with all filaments. They are especially helpful for materials that tend to warp, such as ABS and PETG.
5. Should I turn off the cooling fan for PETG and ABS?
Yes. PETG benefits from minimal fan use (around 30%), while ABS prints best with the fan completely off to reduce cooling-induced warping.