HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) is one of the most versatile yet underappreciated filaments in 3D printing.
While it’s commonly known as a dissolvable support material for ABS prints, HIPS is also an excellent standalone filament for functional parts, prototypes, lightweight models, and even artistic projects.
HIPS offers a unique blend of strength, lightweight durability, and clean post-processing.
However, to get the best results, you need to understand how to print HIPS properly, as it behaves differently from more familiar filaments like PLA or PETG.
This complete guide will walk you through everything you need to know about HIPS filament, including optimal printer settings, material characteristics, troubleshooting, and pro tips for achieving strong, high-quality HIPS prints.
What Is HIPS Filament?
HIPS stands for High Impact Polystyrene, a material known for:
- High impact resistance (similar to ABS)
- Good machinability (easy to cut, sand, paint, and glue)
- Low density (making it lightweight)
- Dissolvability in limonene, allowing it to be used as support material
Originally developed for applications like food packaging and appliance parts, HIPS adapted well to 3D printing due to its strength, printability, and post-processing friendliness.
Why Use HIPS Filament?
| Benefit | Description |
|---|---|
| Excellent Strength-to-Weight Ratio | Tough but light, ideal for durable prototypes and enclosures |
| Smooth Surface Finish | Sands and paints easily for professional appearances |
| High Dimensional Stability | Less shrinkage compared to ABS |
| Support Material for ABS | Dissolves cleanly in limonene |
| Heat Resistance | Withstands moderate temperatures (better than PLA) |
Note: While not as heat-resistant as Nylon or Polycarbonate, HIPS easily outperforms PLA for functional outdoor parts.
HIPS Filament Characteristics
| Property | Value |
|---|---|
| Printing Temperature | 230–250°C |
| Bed Temperature | 90–110°C |
| Heated Chamber Recommended | Yes, especially for large prints |
| Density | ~1.04 g/cm³ |
| Solvent Solubility | Dissolves in limonene |
| Flexibility | Moderate (slightly stiffer than ABS) |
| UV Resistance | Low (paint or coat for outdoor use) |
HIPS is very similar to ABS in behavior but slightly easier to print because it shrinks less and sticks better to the bed when tuned correctly.
Best Print Settings for HIPS Filament
Nozzle Temperature
- Recommended Range: 230–250°C
- Starting Point: 240°C for most brands
Tips:
- Print hotter if you notice weak layer adhesion.
- Cooler if you notice excessive stringing or oozing.
Bed Temperature
- Recommended Range: 90–110°C
- Starting Point: 100°C
Tips:
- Use an enclosure for prints larger than 100 mm to prevent warping.
- Apply a light layer of ABS slurry, Kapton tape, or PEI for better adhesion.
Print Speed
- Recommended Speed: 30–60 mm/s
- Best Results: 40–50 mm/s for outer walls
Tips:
- Slower speeds improve layer adhesion and surface smoothness.
- Adjust infill and travel speeds higher if needed for time efficiency.
Cooling Fan
- Cooling Fan Setting: 0% to 20%
Tips:
- Use minimal cooling to maximize layer bonding.
- Turn fans OFF completely for critical parts or large prints.
- Only use limited fan speeds for bridges or fine details.
Layer Height
- Standard Layer Height: 0.2 mm
- Fine Detail Prints: 0.1–0.15 mm
Tips:
- HIPS handles low layer heights very well.
- Use smaller layers for smoother curves and surface finishes.
Retraction Settings
| Setting | Recommended Value |
|---|---|
| Retraction Distance | 2–4 mm (Direct Drive), 4–6 mm (Bowden) |
| Retraction Speed | 20–40 mm/s |
| Extra Restart Distance | -0.1 to -0.3 mm (optional) |
Tips:
- Tune carefully to minimize stringing without causing underextrusion.
- Dry filament helps reduce stringing dramatically.
Adhesion Helpers
- Bed Surfaces: PEI, ABS slurry, Kapton tape, glue stick on glass
- First Layer Settings: Slightly squish first layer (lower Z-offset)
- Brims/Rafts: Use a 5–10 mm brim for large flat parts to prevent lifting.
Best Slicer Settings for HIPS
| Setting | Suggested Value |
|---|---|
| Wall Line Count | 3–4 walls for strong parts |
| Infill Density | 15–30% (functional prints) |
| Top Layers | 4–6 layers |
| Bottom Layers | 4–6 layers |
| Seam Position | Rear or aligned for cleaner sides |
HIPS benefits from extra perimeters and infill for mechanical strength, especially for enclosures, brackets, and structural parts.
How to Prepare Your Printer for HIPS
Before printing HIPS:
✅ Make sure your bed is clean and level.
✅ Dry your filament if it’s been exposed to humidity (HIPS absorbs moisture).
✅ Preheat the printer for at least 10 minutes to stabilize temperatures.
✅ Calibrate Z-offset carefully to avoid first-layer adhesion issues.
If you have an enclosure, use it to maintain a warm, stable environment—critical for large HIPS prints.
Post-Processing HIPS Prints
One of HIPS’s greatest strengths is how well it finishes.
Techniques:
- Sanding: Smooths layer lines easily; start with 220 grit and move finer.
- Priming and Painting: HIPS takes primer and paint beautifully (use plastic-compatible paints).
- Solvent Smoothing: Limonene vapor smoothing is possible but less common compared to ABS/acetone smoothing.
Tip:
Use automotive filler primer for ultra-smooth finishes on display models or props.
Common Problems When Printing HIPS (and Solutions)
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Warping | Bed too cool, drafts | Increase bed temp, use an enclosure |
| Poor Adhesion | Wrong bed surface | Use glue stick, ABS slurry, PEI |
| Stringing | Moist filament, wrong retraction | Dry filament, fine-tune retraction |
| Layer Splitting | Cooling too fast | Turn off fans, raise chamber temperature |
| Surface Blobs | Overheating, over-extrusion | Lower nozzle temp slightly, calibrate flow rate |
Applications for HIPS Filament
HIPS is more than just support material—it’s great for:
- RC vehicle bodies and parts
- Model making (architecture, prototypes)
- Cosplay props
- Lightweight structural parts
- Robotics housings
- Drones and airframes
- Art sculptures and displays
It’s a fantastic choice whenever you need light, strong, paintable parts without the fuss of PETG stringing or the brittleness of pure PLA.
Comparison: HIPS vs ABS vs PLA
| Property | HIPS | ABS | PLA |
|---|---|---|---|
| Strength | High | Very High | Moderate |
| Flexibility | Moderate | Moderate | Low |
| Ease of Printing | Moderate | Hard | Easy |
| Warping | Medium | High | Low |
| Post-Processing | Excellent | Excellent | Good |
| Solubility | Dissolves in limonene | Dissolves in acetone | No solvent smoothing |
Conclusion:
HIPS offers a nice middle ground: easier to print than ABS, more durable than PLA, and uniquely dissolvable in limonene.
Pro Tips for Printing with HIPS
✅ Dry your filament before every major print (50°C for 4–6 hours).
✅ Use an enclosure for large or functional parts.
✅ Print slow and hot for best strength and surface quality.
✅ Post-process aggressively (sand, prime, paint) for professional finishes.
✅ Experiment with supports: HIPS can support itself decently if designed smartly.
Conclusion
HIPS filament is an incredibly powerful material once you learn its behaviors.
With its balance of strength, low weight, and easy post-processing, it’s ideal for functional prints, artistic models, prototypes, and dissolvable supports.
By following the best settings—correct temperature, low cooling, slow speed, good bed adhesion—you’ll unlock HIPS’s full potential and consistently produce high-quality, durable parts.
If you want a filament that offers flexibility, toughness, and stunning finishes, HIPS is absolutely worth mastering.