One of the most frustrating problems 3D printing enthusiasts face is when a print simply won’t stick to the bed. You’ve prepared your model, sliced it correctly, started the print—and then, the filament just lifts off or curls up. This issue, known as poor bed adhesion, is common but completely fixable.
In this detailed guide, we’ll walk you through why 3D prints fail to stick to the bed and how you can fix the problem step-by-step. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced maker, this guide will help you understand, diagnose, and prevent adhesion issues for more successful prints.
Why Bed Adhesion Is Critical in 3D Printing
The first few layers of a print are the foundation for the entire model. If these layers aren’t secured to the build surface, the rest of the print is likely to fail. Poor adhesion causes problems like:
- Warping
- Layer shifting
- Curling corners
- Completely failed prints
Good bed adhesion ensures your prints are accurate, smooth, and strong. That’s why it’s so important to fix adhesion problems early in your 3D printing journey.
Common Symptoms of Poor Bed Adhesion
Before diving into solutions, let’s recognize how bad bed adhesion looks in action:
- The print detaches during the first few layers
- The filament curls up at the edges
- The nozzle drags the print along the bed
- The bottom of the print is uneven or warped
- Gaps appear in the first layer
If you’re seeing any of these issues, your printer is struggling to hold the filament to the print bed.
Top Reasons Why Prints Don’t Stick to the Bed
Let’s explore the most common causes of bed adhesion failure and how you can fix each one:
1. Unleveled Bed
If the print bed isn’t level, your nozzle will be too close in some spots and too far in others, leading to poor first-layer bonding.
How to Fix It:
- Manually level the bed using a piece of paper under the nozzle
- Use bed leveling knobs to ensure even pressure across all corners
- Run a bed leveling test print (like a calibration square)
- Consider installing an automatic bed leveling sensor (e.g., BLTouch)
2. Incorrect Nozzle Height (Z-Offset)
Your Z-offset determines the vertical distance between the nozzle and bed. If it’s too high, the filament won’t press into the bed properly.
How to Fix It:
- Adjust the Z-offset in your printer settings
- Print a first-layer calibration test
- Lower the nozzle slightly until the filament is squished slightly, creating a smooth, shiny layer
3. Dirty or Contaminated Bed Surface
Oil, dust, or leftover filament can prevent proper adhesion.
How to Fix It:
- Clean the bed with isopropyl alcohol (70–99%) before each print
- Avoid touching the bed with your hands
- For glass beds, use warm water and dish soap for a deeper clean
- Replace or resurface worn-out build plates
4. Printing Too Cold
Filament that’s too cool when extruded won’t bond to the bed surface properly.
How to Fix It:
- Increase the nozzle temperature within the recommended range
- Raise the bed temperature slightly (e.g., 60°C for PLA, 80–100°C for ABS)
- Use a temperature tower print to find the ideal extrusion temperature
5. Printing Too Fast on the First Layer
High speeds prevent the filament from pressing down long enough to stick.
How to Fix It:
- Lower the initial layer print speed in your slicer (20–30 mm/s is ideal)
- Increase the first layer height to 0.2–0.3mm for better bonding
- Slow down travel speed during initial layers
6. Wrong Bed Surface for Filament Type
Different materials stick better to different surfaces.
Examples:
- PLA sticks well to painter’s tape, PEI, and glass
- ABS prefers a heated bed with Kapton tape or ABS slurry
- PETG bonds well with PEI but can stick too well to glass (use glue stick to reduce over-adhesion)
How to Fix It:
- Use the correct bed surface for your material
- Apply adhesives like glue stick, Magigoo, or hairspray to help prints stick
7. Warping Due to Cooling
Sudden cooling can cause the print to shrink and lift off the bed.
How to Fix It:
- Use an enclosure for temperature-sensitive materials like ABS
- Lower the fan speed on the first few layers
- Increase bed temperature slightly
- Use brim or raft to anchor prints to the bed
8. Inconsistent Filament Quality
Low-quality or old filament can affect print adhesion.
How to Fix It:
- Store filament in a dry box or sealed bag with desiccant
- Avoid wet or brittle filament
- Buy from trusted manufacturers with quality control
Adhesion Helpers: Brim, Raft, and Skirt
Modern slicers offer features to improve bed adhesion:
- Brim: Adds extra lines around your model to anchor it
- Raft: A thick base printed under your model to stabilize it
- Skirt: Outlines the print area but doesn’t touch the print—used to prime the nozzle
When to Use:
- Brim: Ideal for parts with small contact areas
- Raft: Use for ABS or when warping is an issue
- Skirt: Always a good practice to test flow before the main print
Bed Adhesion Tips by Filament Type
Different filaments require different approaches. Here’s a quick overview:
| Filament | Bed Temp | Surface | Adhesion Tips |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 50–60°C | Glass, PEI, Tape | Use glue stick or painter’s tape |
| ABS | 90–110°C | Kapton tape, ABS slurry | Use enclosure and raft |
| PETG | 70–90°C | PEI, Glass | Use glue stick to prevent over-stick |
| TPU | 50–60°C | Glass, PEI | Slow first layer, no fan |
| Nylon | 60–80°C | Garolite, glue stick | Dry filament well |
Maintenance Tips for Long-Term Adhesion Success
Maintaining your printer regularly prevents adhesion issues from returning.
- Re-level the bed often
- Replace build surfaces when worn
- Keep your nozzle clean to avoid clogs
- Store filament properly
- Check bed temperature accuracy using a thermometer
- Run regular calibration prints
FAQs
1. Why does my print stick sometimes but not always?
Inconsistent results often mean a slightly unlevel bed, temperature changes, or a dirty surface. Keep conditions consistent and recalibrate regularly.
2. What is the best bed adhesion solution for PLA?
A combination of a clean, heated bed (50–60°C) and glue stick or painter’s tape works well.
3. Should I use a raft or brim for every print?
Not always. Use them only when needed—like with small prints, warp-prone materials, or uneven bed levels.
4. Can I use hairspray for bed adhesion?
Yes. Many users find unscented, firm-hold hairspray works great on glass beds for PLA and ABS. Apply lightly and clean after use.
5. Is automatic bed leveling enough?
Auto bed leveling helps, but you should still check nozzle height and surface cleanliness.
External Resources from Trusted Sources
To build your expertise, check out these expert resources:
- Prusa 3D Help on Bed Adhesion
- Ultimaker Troubleshooting Guide
- MatterHackers Adhesion Tips
- All3DP – Common Print Problems and Fixes
- Marlin Firmware Docs – Bed Leveling
Final Thoughts
Poor bed adhesion is one of the most common, yet most easily solved, problems in 3D printing. By carefully adjusting your bed leveling, nozzle height, bed temperature, and print settings, you can eliminate adhesion issues almost entirely. The key is to understand what your filament and printer need—and then provide a clean, stable, and well-prepared printing environment.
With the tips in this article, you now have a complete toolkit to fix bed adhesion problems and improve your print success rate. Keep experimenting, stay patient, and happy printing!